Jack Wills did a rudie.

Jack Wills Latest Catalogue Preview

Inappropriate or what?

It's not as if they're even sexy underwear. The 'fabulously British' label seems to have rudely mistaken itself for some sort of Anne Summers wannabe. Somehow, I don't ever think that that will be the immediate association with the mention of the words - Jack Wills. It's the antithesis of what it stands for: country living, quintessentially British, high quality, meticulously crafted clothing.

I have to ask Jack, what is with the tack? I just dont geddit. It doesn't suit your wholesome image.

Adding fuel to the fire, the above image is not the only one being branded as "overtly sexy" and "offensive". Nineteen people complained about a total of four of the pictures in its latest spring catalogue, stating that the images "were unsuitable for a catalogue targeted at teenagers.” Jack’s response? "The brand is aimed at university students over the age of 18." What with the slogan ‘university-outfitters’, this essentially bears a degree of truth. But when thirteen year old teenagers are championing the label, head-to-toe, it poses the question; is the brand even aware of their consumer market? This latest campaign suggests not.

Jack Wills has a notorious reputation at my university. I was whole-heartedly, blissfully unaware of what Jack Wills even was, before October 2008. With it being in York, I expected it to be some sort of fine, one-of-its-kind tea room. The hype over some fifty quid, frankly hideous pyjama bottoms just baffled me.

It's the university campus uniform, an image idolised by my brother's year nine, non-public school girl friends. It epitomises mummy bought me this and daddy got me that. It is the ultimate symbol of a public school, country house, fox shooting upbringing i.e. look at all my cash. It is the perfect illustration of 'coporate whoring', to which we are all guilty of, no question about it but this is the extreme. It is essentially a fad teenage wannabe rahs are buying into for only literally, the words "Jack Wills Lacrosse Club", to be plastered across their chests, thighs and apparently now their boobs and derrieres. Have you ever played lacrosse? Do you even know what it is? Probably not.


I'd rather spend the £98 you forked out for, what is essentially, a puffa jacket, in Urban Outfitters.

Yes I would love to be clad, head-to-toe Chanel / Chloe / McQueen. BUT that's 'cos they're amazing clothes and to be honest, I don't even think it's a worthy comparison contemplating. Just to clarify I am not hating on the concept of 'The Brand.'


As the Telegraph so eloquently puts its; “Parents have been fist-pumping in protest, most likely because they've realised they have been forking out £59 for a hoodie only for dear Cammy and Hugo to get down and dirty in it.”

Tru dat.

Twitter / Bloglovin'

Helen,

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Apparently, as it transpires, the photos are part of their pitch to the American market where it faces tough competition from the likes of Ambercrombie & Fitch, Hollister and other 'hoody and tee giants'.
How to fight off this competition? Sell 'sex' obvz.

monday musings 003That Collaboration Rumour.

Erdem S/S '11

Not the Royal Wedding Dress one, although Mr.Moralioglu isn't ruling that one out either. My thoughts on this? I wish someone would just hurry up and admit to it. The Sarah Barton will she, wont she saga is wearing thin. Surely, if it is you, then it's something that you couldn't help but be screaming from the rooftops, for the whole world to hear, no?

My interests are much more concentrated on something that will make a difference to my life, or my wardrobe at least. Dun dun dun.......

Who will fill Lanvin's H&M collaboration shoesies?

Your guess is as good as any, with names from Erdem to Tom Ford being tossed around the fashionable air, mass hype has amalgamated regarding this seemingly, 'deadly secret' subject, today.

Like with the case of Middleton and her exceedingly, impending dressmaker discovery, it seems that the Fashion Houses' top dogs are struggling to unveil any clues. I really don't get the appeal of keeping it under wraps. Why such a big secret? We're all fashionable friends here. We'll found out sooner or later. And the sooner you tell us, it won't become any less exciting, than if you wait a month.

Personally, I am championing the Erdem case. A glance over any season's lookbook and you'll understand why. A man who in, not only my eyes, has perfected the mastery of the ladylike frock.

It got me thinking; what is the appeal of that high-street collaboration? What makes the creative directors (and their army of pattern cutters and sewers etc.) of the world's most reputable fashion houses, dedicate precious time and efforts to producing a collection that sells for an absolute snip of its ready-to-wear pieces?

Its a simple answer of a high-profile, publicity stunt. Increased hype for said high-street store, setting it apart from its competitors and mass brand awareness is sprinkled over the high streets of the world, all thanks to the fact that the unattainable becomes attainable.

Yes, H&M's consumer market of teenage girls will by no means, contribute significantly, to said designer's, following season's takings, (well their 'mummys' or 'daddys' may) but the important fact is, that along with their new dress, they'll walk out of said high street store with a hell of a lot more brand awareness than when they entered. This spreads like the plague. All it takes is for a friend, acquaintance or relative to ask 'Oh, who's that by'? To which the smug teenager has the pleasure of replying; "It's Erdem". BOOM. 'I should be wearing Erdem', thoughts ensue.

What gets me though is, why, if all these high-flying, fashion names are so highly covetable, then why not let the whole world have access to it for all of five minutes (by the time it sells out)? Lanvin's collab with H&M last year pretty much sold out, the day of its launch. But then I suppose distributing it worldwide for any Tom, Dick or Harry to get their paws on it, is all too mainstream and diffuses the exclusivity of it all. And no-one likes a sell-out.

Still, if it is Erdem I would like a look in please. This has unintentionally turned into an I ♥ Erdem campaign. Just saying.

Debates aside, one thing is for certain, with Lanvin and Jimmy Choo on its books, the chosen one will have super-high expectations to live up to.

Thoughts or guesses?

Twitter / Bloglovin'

Helen,

X

monday musings 002Yay for YAYER.

A bit of an online shop spotlight. I give you YAYER..

WHO?
You may or may not be familiar with YAYER but I am going to tell you anyway. This bespoke brand first appeared on my radar when 'internet sensation', llymlrs, blogged about it, earlier in the month. And as all well-informed fashion blog wannabes know; if Lily Melrose is telling you this stuff then its probably something worth knowing about. With a personal penchant for knits and out of pure curiosity, I too, jumped aboard the bandwagon. YAYER has fast become a little guilty pleasure of mine. Not that thats a bad thing.

'Covetable vintage pieces and on-trend modern styles.' - YAYER.CO.UK  
The online store offers exactly that. Something old or something new, each piece hand-picked and highly covetable in unique, desirable designs. Exclusively online, it offers a quintessentially British alternative to asos and the like.

WHY?

The eclectic mix of vintage and cutting-edge, contemporary designs is YAYER's best asset, I believe. Personally, I am a massive fan of their printed garments, they have the S/S trends down to a tee; seventies palazzo pants to sheer, fringed and maxi tops. It goes without saying that you'll struggle to find copycats of these one-off pieces on the high street.

WHAT?

Essentially, everything and anything. I challenge you to not be able to pick out at least five lust-have items. My favourites of the moment include..

 L-R: Acid Alphabet Silk Dress, Prairie Gold Silk Shirt, Tribal Over Print Cardigan,Poppy Skies Dress

Unfortunately for me but fortunately for my bank balance all but the first one are sold out. That simple fact alone speaks volumes of the brand.

 L-R: Tribal Print Bodycon, Mini Leather Backpack, Wine Drape Cardigan (SOLD OUT), Coco Rose Playsuit

Go see what all the fuss is about..

WHERE?

Website /  Facebook / Twitter

Helen,

X

monday musings 001The Curse of The Fashion Intern.

The story of my life these days sounds a little bit like this; I’m due to graduate this coming summer, have I got some cushtee-salary, graduate job lined up? Nahhh.

Having studied English Language, (more like linguistics) for the best part of the last three years, I cannot wait to close the book on the University chapter of my life. It has been the time of my life but man, has it served its time. I have lost the little enthusiasm I once had for learning the entire process that the human vocal tract implements for articulating every sound a human can possibly make. I am not even joking. For this reason, amongst a handful of other contributing factors, I am not jumping on the bandwagon that provides the attractive meal ticket to so many graduates these days. This being; the trend to bag the first, run of the mill, graduate job offered to them. This 9-5 grind has zero appeal to me when its premise is for the sake of being employed.

So what is my grand plan? Ideally graduate with a respectable degree class, complete a NCTJ course in News Journalism, preferably in Wimbledon, London, secure some solid, life-long contacts.

BOOM, my foot is in the proverbial door.

Of course this is the pipe dream. The reality is worlds apart.

The last few weeks of my life have been centred around discovering the best i.e. the quickest and easiest way into the cut-throat world of fashion journalism and it essentially, boils down to one thing; that enviable fashion intern with the big dogs. A pre-requisite for most fashiony professions.

What is meant by a fashion intern? A term used flittingly, it encapsulates all avenues of the industry. The strict definition posits “a recent graduate undergoing supervised practical training”. True, to an extent but interns can often be expected to work long hours on mundane, tedious tasks for little or no profit or credit. A pat on the back may be all it takes to have your face or name cemented into the boss’ mind when it comes to discussing potential candidates for an upcoming job role. This is a priceless prospect.

Interns are especially hot property around the time of fashion week. This is where the ongoing debate - experience vs. exploitation really adds fuel to the fire. And why? It works on the same basis as slave labour; its free. For example, why should PR companies pay their existing work force, overtime to line up the seats of every room in Somerset House when they have an abundance of willing youngsters who daren’t question working an 8am till 1am day, at their disposal? It is this willingness and the characteristic ‘I will do anything to get me where I want to go’, philosophy that stretches interns to their limits.

BBC2 aired a show in February entitled; "Who gets the best jobs", I probably watched it at the wrong time as it only reaffirmed my post-university panic. The moral of the story? Be willing to work for free, no expenses reimbursed, in London. Girish Gupta carried out four separate, unpaid, journalism internships in the big city, bed hopping from backpacker hostels to gum tree contact’s sofas. Having, in total, thirty two of his articles published with not one penny to his name. He stuck it out.

What you have to remember is that with the number of horror stories comes the odd fairytale.
Girish is now a recognised and respectable, high-flying freelance journalist including the role as foreign correspondant for The Times.

Alexandra Shulman, editor of UK VOGUE, hosted a Q&A evening via Vogue’s twitter, last week. She was inundated with questions regarding internships. The clichéd advice that have echoed many a career advisor and experienced journalist resounded; be curious, write well, work hard; all pretty obvious traits to an aspiring journalist. The light of the end of the tunnel? "You definitely don't have to do internship at Vogue to get a job here. I didn't!" Read the highlights here.

Having recently attended a conference on ‘Making it in the media’, wise words were spoken by the Managing Director of “The Press”. In response to where does the line come between experience and exploitation, he said “I would be obliged to start paying an intern at the point that their copy is published, even if it is just minimum wage”. However, it is very different story when dealing with the UK’s most well-established fashion and publishing houses. The simple reason? The demand is there.

It's all about a balance, but the trouble is knowing when that balances comes. The experience and skills gained, even if this be brewing the best cup of tea known to man, being able to cement that on your CV is invaluable. Although you can’t live without money, I dare you to ask Vogue’s Chief Exec to enlist you on payroll, it just wouldn’t happen. Their reasoning? Why should they pay you when so many others are offering it, quite literally on a plate, for nada.

In my humble opinion, I honestly think that if you’re aware of the grittier end of the industry, the fact that you have to start at the bottom and have a bit of tenacity about you, then why shouldn’t you be the one making it big.

Feel free to share your stories and experiences.
Also, if you have any advice, it would be greatly appreciated.

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do you think i'm skinny?

The ugly side of fashion seems to finally be having a much needed reality check as designers are urged to ‘handle with care'.

This comes in the light of the news released on Monday that president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), Diane Von Furstenberg has issued new guidelines to ensure that models are treated well during Fashion Weeks. The recommendations mainly regard the models’ health and safety, stipulating that healthy meals and snacks should be provided backstage for models. The guidelines also set out to protect the vulnerability of young models, stating that no model under the age of sixteen is to be hired by any designer. No exceptions.

Summary of the guidelines:

• Educate the industry to identify the early warning signs in an individual at risk of developing an eating disorder through workshops and encourage those who do show signs to seek professional help in order to continue modelling.

• Supply healthy meals, snacks, and water backstage and at shoots and provide nutrition and fitness education.

• Support the well-being of younger individuals by not hiring models under the age of sixteen for runway shows; not allowing models under the age of eighteen to work past midnight; and providing regular breaks and rest.

• Promote a healthy backstage environment by raising the awareness of the impact of smoking related diseases, ensuring a smoke-free environment and address underage drinking by prohibiting alcohol. 

What does this all mean for the industry? Is it a step in the right direction? Or a case of a little too late?

I am of mixed opinion. It is all well and good issuing guidelines but the real test comes down to whether they are actively implemented and to what extent. I think it will take considerable time before every single catwalk show worldwide is governed by these rules. Obviously, its encouraging to see the industry taking active steps to protect models’ well-being but it is a bit late in the day considering how many tragic tales could have had happier endings if something of this sort had been actualized years ago. Isabelle Caro, a French model is the most recent case. The most extreme case at that; she headed an anti-anorexia campaign at Milan Fashion Week 2008, in the hope of getting a law passed by the French government that would prohibit models from working in the fashion industry if they did not weigh enough. She died in November last year, weighing a measely five stone. It amazes me, that so many who had come before Caro (Ana Carolina, sisters Eliana and Luisel Ramos) had not provided the wake-up call the industry desperately needs.

The way I see it; there is no need to go from one extreme to the next as the introduction of special ‘plus-size catwalk shows’ (NYFW S/S ‘11 last year) could have equally detrimental effects on young girls’ perception of beauty. There is a distinct difference between slim and being anorexic. Neither sending a size zero nor a size sixteen model down a catwalk to parade beautiful clothes connotates healthy ideologies.

I could go into an elaborate size-zero versus plus-size debate but it would only be a regurgitation of what so many articles have already discussed so I shall conclude; it is undoubtedly a step in the right direction.

It remains to be seen as to whether all this will work which will only be demonstrated by a decrease in the rate of eating disorder patients but I do salute Diane for flying this flag. It’s about time.

What do you think?

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